Water as FUEL


REPLICAS of MEYER – Qiman13 posts 3

### QIMAN13 Posts on MEYER Replication, Part 3: (page created at November 2007 Update)

## QIMAN13 posts on Meyer Replication,, :

# Integral posts from: http://www.icubenetwork.com, from a pdf file: (MDG nov07: Once more, ALL DETAILS WERE ON THE NET, FOR US TO UNDERSTAND, in this case since 3 years already, but we were still searching!!!)

from another pdf stii non identified, 518kb, 62 pages

qiman13, Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2005 7:08 pm Post subject: Bedini SG – THE Key to Meyer’s circuit!
I will stick to Bedini’s SG technology in this section. You will get the straight answer specifically on the electrical part of Meyer’s technology. Basically, his circuit that produces the unidirectional longitudinal radiant impulses into his water capacitor. Nothing more and nothing less. Nothing to do with some magic resonance of the water molecules.

The truth to Meyer’s circuit will unfold before your very eyes. The answer is in the section “Secrets of the Water Fuel Cell explained!!!” I will focus on the radiant energy part. We will focus on producing the radiant energy, which is necessary for overunity gas production at the levels claimed by Meyer.

First, I would recommend throroughly examining these websites and get familiar with the REAL information where REAL people are getting REAL RESULTS! The bottom line is RESULTS. Not a bunch of hype, smoke and mirrors, ideas of what MIGHT be going on, etc…
1. http://www.icehouse.net/john34
2. http://peswiki.com/index.php/Directory:Bedini_SG
3. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Bedini_SG/
4. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bediniprocess/

John Bedini has put more in the public domain about the TRUTH to radiant energy than any single person since Tesla. He has the SIMPLEST plans that anyone can build to get actual RESULTS. I will also show you how to recognize a real radiant device vs. a fake one with meters showing an impressive output compared to the input. That is all metering tricks and mean absolutely NOTHING. I will explain why. I will lead you in the direction to upscale the Bedini SG for serious radiant output. By the time you are done, you will have a seriously high output radiant circuit.

AFTER that, then you can connect it to your wfc for serious gas production. For the WFC part, I don’t think much is needed outside of George Wiseman’s Brown’s Gas books 1 & 2, which shows much safety considerations, etc… Build the cell with concentric tubes and incorporate as much safety features as you can according to those books.

In essence, the easiest solution for anyone to do what Meyers did is to build a browns gas cell with concentric tubes and hook an upscaled Bedini SG circuit to it. No R&D, just follow the plans and get RESULTS! Stay tuned and look forward the real information and not a lot of hype! I challenge each and everyone of you to be courageous enough to look at this subject with open eyes and not skepticism. If you look at it skeptically, then you will most assuredly will create something in your mind to back up your skepticism. Open eyes will allow the truth to manifest for you. You get exactly what you intend find.

Skeptics intend to find something suspicous and that is the reality they create for themselvse. Express the skepticism else where, plenty of pages for that. Henry Ford summed it up quite easily: If you think you can or if you think you can’t, you’re right! I’ll walk you through the steps to duplicate the Bedini SG and get RESULTS.

Answer to the Meyer’s circuit…coming soon. (not like it hasn’t already been answered in the Bedini links above and in my topic that has been here for a few months.) I’m looking forward to sincere, honest, dedicated and motivated individuals who want to put something really beautiful into your hands. I will support you as much as I possibly can. You can take that to the bank! $$$$ Cha Lets get this rolling.

qiman13, Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2005 11:47 am Post subject: reply to Scalar Wave from different thread
Honestly, I haven’t taken into consideration the cosmic level and what might be happening in the cylinders, etc… You did hit it on the head with the dirac sea holes. Bedini’s technology fills the batteries with dirac sea holes. This paper describes in the most accurate detail what exactly is happening in the batteries that Bedini is charging.
http://www.cheniere.org/techpapers/Bedini.pdf

The interesting thing is that what Bedini does to the batteries is what Meyer was doing to the WFC capacitor. Not only the radiant delivered to them but the batteries MUST be conditioned just like the WFC. After a while, both will have a fine powder white coating on the plates (or tubes). To big bubbles on the plates and the bubbles are more like fine champaign fizz.

Over time, the batteries and the wfc plates/tubes become more and more and more efficient with each use. There is a similar alchemy happening with the actual metal itself. I haven’t compared closely the negative resistor paper by Bearden on Bedini’s batteries with the WFC. The energy delivery is the same, the conditioning is the same the absorption of the energy is the same. I’m willing to bet that that paper linked above holds the key to the real technical answer of what is happening to the wfc capacitor.

Pulling electrons from the target…that is a very interesting point. Any negative energy might strip the electrons leaving the dirac holes. The energy going to the batteries and WFC, is negative time reversed energy so that fact in itself could have interesting effects. I personally believe the trz’s are being created in the batteries and the wfc when it is pumped with true radiant energy since its nature is time reversed. For example, the battery charged with radiant at x voltage powers a load longer than a battery charged to the same voltage (and true amp hours) by a hot charger. The radiant one powers a load longer because it is constantly time reversing the destruction to the dipole as it powers a load, to my understanding.

I noticed in my water cell with ss tubes that after running it for a bit and turning it off. The bubbles (less amount of them) still continue to be produced for a few minutes with no power input. I think your understanding of scalar waves is more advanced than mine, but I get the concepts.

qiman13, Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2005 12:29 pm Post subject: Gabriel Kron
The 2 most important statements about energy circuits come from Gabriel Kron (see below)…a mentor to Floyd Sweet…Floyd Sweet was one of Bedini’s mentors. Just follow the family trees and you’ll see who has real results.
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Gabriel Kron 1901 to 1968
Kron, Gabriel. “…the missing concept of “open-paths” (the dual of “closed-paths”) was discovered, in which currents could be made to flow in branches that lie between any set of two nodes. (Previously — following Maxwell — engineers tied all of their open-paths to a single datum-point, the ‘ground’). That discovery of openpaths established a second rectangular transformation matrix… which created ‘lamellar’ currents…” “A network with the simultaneous presence of both closed and open paths was the answer to the author’s years-long search.” Gabriel Kron, “The Frustrating Search for a Geometrical Model of Electrodynamic Networks,” Journal unk., issue unk., circa 1962, p. 111-128. The quote is from p. 114.

Lamellar currents, these are branch currents flowing along the nodes in layers, they may be tapped off to form real EM power once transformed. The only way I have found to capture these currents is when the inductors become negative value, the same for semiconductors. They are thin currents of zero potential under measurement. Lamellar currents when transformed in branches become very powerful in charge. John Bedini
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Kron, Gabriel. . “When only positive and negative real numbers exist, it is customary to replace a positive resistance by an inductance and a negative resistance by a capacitor (since none or only a few negative resistances exist on practical network analyzers.)” Gabriel Kron, “Numerical solution of ordinary and partial differential equations by means of equivalent circuits.” Journal of Applied Physics, Vol. 16, Mar. 1945a, p. 173.
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The inductance mentioned above is the primary coil in the Bedini or Meyer Circuit. The capacitor is the battery being charged by Bedini’s circuit or the WFC in Meyer’s circuit.

qiman13, Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2005 1:25 pm Post subject:

This is the schematic to start with. The right side of the pic is the basic schematic to start with and the left side is a close up of the transistor. Just focus on the right side for now.
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parts list
90volt neon bulb across the collector and emitter
transistor – use a MJL21194 in a T03PBL body
if you can’t get that transistor just use a 2n3055 to get started.
The diode D2 leaving collector going to + on battery being charged or + on wfc, use 1N4007
D1 – use 1N4001
Resistor in between trigger wire + and base of transistor is 680ohm 1/2 watt.
Primary coil power wire use 18 guage magnet wire.
Trigger wire going to base of transistor thru the resistor is 20 guage.
Do about 900 turns on the coil. Wrap BOTH the power and trigger wire together at the same time…for more efficiency, twist the wires together.

Use skinny welding rod cut to coil length and pack them in the center of the spool. Make sure the welding rod is insulated from the wire.
STICK TO THE ABOVE COMPONENTS EXACTLY AND MAKE IT WORK WITH THOSE FIRST.

******AFTER******* you get it running, then you can experiement with different components – tuning them, etc… This prevents anyone from building it according to how they think it should be built, then it won’t run and

Bedini gets blamed for having a schematic that doesn’t work. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE…have the respect to stick to the plans and make it work first. Yes, you probably can get it to work with other components, but if you don’t get the results as claimed, you can only blame yourself. I think this is a reasonable request.

Also, don’t find the strongest magnets possible for the rotor. That can take away from the efficiency. Use plain ceramic magnets. Radio Shack rectangle magnets the $1 ones work just fine. For the rotor, if you use metal, use alunimum. Any non-ferrous metal should work fine, aluminum is best. Just trust me on this.

You can use plexiglass rotors or even plastic mag wheels from a bicycle. spacing from coil top to magnets on rotor, start with about 1cm or so and adjust up and down after you get it running and check the results. Focus on producing radiant energy instead of torque. Magnet spacing, if you use a small 4 inch aluminum rotor for example, you might want magnets every 90 degrees.

Plastic mag bicycle wheel 10-15″ diameter, you can space them every 36 degrees (divided by 10). Just play with that. Get experience with one coil setup first and when you have a good feel for it, then you can go to multi coils. If you think you can look at the schematic and figure out how to put on multi coils, well, you can probably do that, but I’m going to tell you, you will miss the point. Do that later. One coil first. Please.

For the input battery, use a low impedance 12 volt battery. Don’t go 24 or 36 until you know what you’re doing because you will produce some much power that you will explode your transistors like popcorn and there goes your eye ball. Just use a lot of safety and common sense precautions. Low impedance wires from the battery(s) to the circuit and from the circuit to the battery or wfc. Use fat monster cables. You need low impdance wires like that so that there is a lot of surface area for the aether to flow over. The input battery is a dipole that pours out a lot of radiant over the wires and if you have large wires/cables, then there is more area for the flow. If you use rinky dinky wires to connect the batteries and don’t get a lot of radiant in the output, you’ll know one of the reasons why.

It actually would be a good idea to start with smaller wies to connect everything and make sure it runs, then experiment by using larger and larger wires. You’ll eventually get too high of voltage and you’ll fry the components. Anyway, enjoy and just be happy that you don’t have to figure out what Meyer was doing with the circuit or how it worked because the answers are already here. One point to make – Meyer talked about resonance. Has nothing to do with lc resonant circuit. The blocking diode should enable common sense to recognize that that allows energy flow in one direction so how can something resonate back and forth? It WON’T!

Meyer’s definition of resonance is when the whole circuit at whatever frequency is synchronized in the way so that it is output the most with the least input. That IS the definition of resonance that Meyer is talking about. No magic resonance of the water molecules, etc… Puharich, Keely, etc… had ways to fracture water with specific frequencies (those magic frequencies that everyone is stuck on). Well that was them and Meyer is Meyer and Meyer wasn’t doing what they were doing. Meyer is letting the wfc absorb the radiant to high potentials.

This post will get you closer to Meyer’s circuit and what Meyer was producing with the circuit than any post I have ever seen regarding gas from water production. Brown’s gas production is a lot more efficient that regular electrolysis. Apply true radiant output to a Brown’s gas cell and you’ll be in awe that the answer was in plain site the entire time. Bedini had in on his webpages for many years!

Anyway, if you have questions about the above, post them here and I’ll do my best to help you out. However, if you need to ask what is a transistor, where do you get the right magnets, how do I wind a coil, etc… please be resourceful (the internet is the easiest powerful resource so use it – I don’t want to take anyone from ground floor since so many good websites out there can tell you those simple things) and educate yourself on those things. Good luck!

qiman13, Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2005 1:27 pm Post subject: pic of schematic
If someone can get this to post as a pic here, it would be appreciated: http://peswiki.com/index.php/Image:Bedini_SG_Schematic_neo_by_John_Bedini.gif Thanks!

qiman13, Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2005 6:27 pm Post subject: the older schematic
You can see that the reverse wound wire goes through a bridge and that output goes to a cap. That cap gets to x voltage and is discharged with the pulley. Solid state discharge can be made as well with a 555 timer to control the frequency or just use natural resonance by triggering an scr from the cap with a 90v neon bulb.

You see, triggering with the neon bulb lets nature decide what frequency to run at and whatever frequency that is, it will automatically be in resonance. Find that with a 555!!! You can see that the below schematic is more similar to Meyer’s circuit with the 2nd coil going through a bridge and that goes through the diode and choke to the cell. Well, the SG circuit is WAY better and a lot more simple.

qiman13, Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2005 6:31 pm Post subject: 555 triggered schematic
This is for reference as well. Don’t make this, use the SG schematic. This is triggered by a 555 timer. Instead of batteries on the charging end, imagine a wfc…

qiman13, Posted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 11:23 am Post subject: wfc test…only 1 tube connected.
From last september… http://icubenetwork.com/files/watercar/non-commercial/qiman13/celltest.mpg

ninja, Posted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 10:31 pm Post subject:
qiman13, You have no idea how great it is to have seen your posts at this time. I got Bearden’s book, Energy From the Vacuum, back in Feb 2003 and have been into Bedini’s and alt energy work for some time before then. I have seen many viable devices and have even seen Meyer’s work in the past but I was just into gaining the knowledge of all the past free energy devices over the last many years. I figured I better see it all before I get too caught up into something that might go no where. I have come to the conclusion over the last couple months that perhaps best and easiest way to utilize free energy is via water splitting at insanely low wattage, if any

Needless to say I agree with your idea of using Bedini’s ‘Radiant Energy’ for the WFC. I completely agree also that this is how Meyer did it! There is no other way but to use PURE POTENTIAL, which is TIME REVERSED aka before the mass component of electrons reach it. Bearden has documented this for some time and through Bedini they have shown it. I wonder if Meyer ever had the chance to see Bearden’s work or Bedini’s and if he ever saw correlations. Probably not. I think the reason all have failed in duplicating Meyer’s work is because they are stuck in the RULES and NORMALTIES of electrical engineering and aren’t away of how to truly generate and use PURE MASSLESS POTENTIAL.

Are you familiar with the Fogal Semiconductor of which Bearden has a hand in? It uses that PURE POTENTIAL, the same one that is output via any Bedini device for the reverse charging of batteries, in a transistor to allow it to have unlimited bandwidth and infinite speed. They did many tests on it and it’s just amazing, I won’t go into all that here, but do a search sometime. I must say, when did you record that movie of your WFC setup working? It looks exactly like Meyer’s setup as his worked in his video. Congratulations are in order if that is your setup running off the PURE POTENTIAL from a Bedini setup. PLEASE get back to me with more details… I just have to know! ) Thanks again!

qiman13, Posted: Sat Mar 12, 2005 2:26 pm Post subject: data
That video clip is about 6 months ago. 30 volts, 3 amps, 120 hz, pulsed DC (not radiant – just super efficient electrolysis)

Just like the others that look like they’re making gas like this. Not radiant, super efficient electrolysis. I can tell just by looking at the schematic they are using.

You can see the coil of magnet wire (used as choke) with a diode on it going to the cell. So + on output to diode to coil to + tube. – tube to – on output. t304 ss tubes – 1mm gap surrounding inner tube. Plain tap water – absolutely nothing added.

After running for a while, the tubes get almost a powder white coating on them. My friend first thought it was getting pitted, but when we took it all apart, no pitting, steel in perfect shape as if nothing ever happened and the powder just wipes off. It takes a while to condition the steel, but if you run something like that a few hours a day. In a few weeks, I don’t think you’ll get much more conditioning out of it. The steel should be in optimal shape by then. The cell will get more and more efficient.
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My opinion on the conditioning. Based on certain v, a and hz, etc… and based on the shape of the metal, etc… There are going to be certain areas more conductive than others, etc… The coating will be applied across the steel in a way so that the conductivity is more uniform but also the conductivity is reduced to further prevent current so the water just absorbes the radiant.

One would think that the “electricity” would eventually just chew away the metal. I think that is the case with electrolysis. That metal is in order and gets chipped and becomes chaotic. In the metal using high frequency pulsed dc, the coating appears by the very nature of the energy and therefore, something out of order (the substance that makes the coating) is self-ordering as evidenced by it applying itself to the steel and making the device more and more efficient.

Some might say it is just some electroplating process, but either way, it is the opposite of electrolysis. Anyway, just my opinion.
—————————–

The purpose of that test was really to test the concept of the diode and choke. NO LC resonance, but the choke sure does reduce current so you can get higher voltage with less amps from the exact power supply.

All the chokes, etc… aren’t necessary. That is becuase Meyer needed every trick in the book to try to reduce electron flow because he didn’t build a real radiant circuit. Meyer’s was closer to a Rube Goldberg machine http://www.rubegoldberg.com/

Bedini’s is a straight up radiant energizer. So, that was 6 months ago…lots of progress since then. A friend is working more on the cell and the plumbing for safety, etc… I’m focusing on the power supply.

ninja, Posted: Sat Mar 12, 2005 2:59 pm Post subject:
This is it folks, I can already feel the excitement. This the is answer, no more searching! Build a Bedini SG first to get acquainted with the production of Radiant Energy and how to handle it. Then when you understand more about how and why it functions you can proceed to more advanced designs. After you get some serious output you can hook it up to you Meyer’s wfc setup.

Thanks again qiman13. Keep us all updated with your progress, as I will also. And everyone else that wants to actually have a working system. Don’t let STANDARD EE MODELS AND THEORIES restrict your thinking folks. There is so much information on Radiant Energy, just seek it out from either Bedini or Bearden. Bedini builds the devices and experiments and Bearden functions as the theoreticist and the man that tells you whats going on If you want to read about Radiant Energy get Bearden’s book ‘Energy From the Vacuum’ at http://www.cheniere.org/ Peace all. See you when we get there

Simon, Posted: Sat Mar 12, 2005 3:55 pm Post subject:
wow this sounds awesome i was going to have a go at building the Bedini SG machine cause it looked to cool! i will definately be trying this.

Dave, Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 10:53 am Post subject:
Hi Qiman Quote: After running for a while, the tubes get almost a powder white coating on them. My friend first thought it was getting pitted, but when we took it all apart, no pitting, steel in perfect shape as if nothing ever happened and the powder just wipes off. It takes a while to condition the steel, but if you run something like that a few hours a day. In a few weeks, I don’t think you’ll get much more conditioning out of it. The steel should be in optimal shape by then. The cell will get more and more efficient.

Good results I came to the same conclusion with my cell and same result.I believe a oxide coating is formed from the absorbtion of hydrogen into the ss,which create a dielectric coating as you say it can take hours to weeks to get the super efficency. Glad I can confirm all your results. Best Regard Dave

qiman13, Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 2:05 pm Post subject: coating
That’s awesome Dave! Bedini gets the EXACT same conditioning effect in his batteries, except of course that the plates are lead. Lots of people build an energizer and try to charge the batteries a few times and it doesn’t charge very well and they quit and start blaming John for it not working. I’m sure people have quit with the wfc because of the exact same reason.

Anyway, over the months, I have seen talk about the possibility of the wfc needing to be conditioned. I think that there is no doubt that the steel absolutely needs to be conditioned. I’m sure other metals might work well, but the T304 ss tubes work beautifully for me. Anyone working on learning the radiant aspect of this project by charging batteries with the SG need to understand that it takes a while for the batteries to be conditioned. After that, they will hold a charge that is stronger and lasts longer than the same battery brand new out of the box.

Viagra for Batteries! A friend of mine is constructing a wfc and I’m working on the power supply. As soon as the wfc is done, I’ll post pics with description of how I did it. I think it is pretty straight forward. Has everyone else found that the wires need to be led to the tubes from the bottom since the wires interfere with the gas if they were coming in from the top? Just wondering.

qiman13, Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 2:52 pm Post subject: response to freedomfuel
response to freedomfuel in other group (secrets explained section)
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Actually, the super south pole part of it already has been confirmed by testing and was posted directly by Bedini with diagrams, etc… The super south pole is not only there, but does squeeze outwards in between each magnet and does have a specific interaction with the coil’s magnetic field.

Bedini has used the scalar component of opposing magnetic fields for many years. See patent # 5,487,057 A method and apparatus is provided for reducing relaxation noise in a conducting medium. The device is fabricated by affixing two magnets at like, repelling poles; wrapping said magnets with a coil of wire in an orientation orthogonal to the interface between the joined magnets and the like poles of the magnets to form a magnetic unit; connecting said coil to a motor means, an electrical power supply means and a switch means; attaching a spindle to said motor means. The spindle receives said conducting medium. The apparatus can be in a housing. The conducting medium is placed on said spindle. By activating the device, a modulated magnetic electromagnetic field is created simultaneous to the spinning of the conducting medium. The information recording medium rotates through the modulated electromagnetic field, thereby reducing the relaxation noise.

Thanks for the links. I’ll have to pour though those. Interesting info about opposing magnets: http://web.archive.org/web/20030406112952/http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Lab/4810/dragone1.html

Someone asked Bedini about a larger wheel like a bicycle wheel vs. a smaller rotor where the super south pole would be stronger and he said that even in the bicycle wheel, it is still there.

Another part is that each magnet going around the rotor, one magnet is repelling the one next to it as well, that adds to the effect. If you slide one magnet around the rotor towards another magnet, they will repel. The magnet being an NESS actually comes straight from Bearden.

The previous post was taken from his website actually. Energy taken from the magnet is instantly replaced by the vacuum energy. (virtual photons, aether, whatever you want to call it). Of course magnets may lose about 1% per year of its strength, that is insignificant compared to what can be extracted from it without killing it.

The source of energy in Bedini’s motors are
1. scalar component from the magnets

2. when the battery being charged is repeatedly pulsed with the radiant, that battery will continue to absorb directly from the vacuum space around it even if nothing further is coming from the “motor”, which John actually prefers to refer to it as an energizer.

3. I believe the collapsing magnetic field, literally sucks in not only the scalar from the magnets but from the vacuum as well.

4. Also, I believe that with the high frequency pulses, the heaviside flow going over the wires gets more dense and less dense (slight compression and decompression of the aether flowing over the wires). On the collapsed pulse, I believe the the virtual photon energy outside of the heaviside flow is attracted to the wires direction and is included in the flow going to the batteries being charged. This would be the mechanism that ambient heat could be converted back into potential in the circuit.

5. probably a few others. #1 & #2 are for sure. #3 & #4 are just just my opinion.

You state: “randomly orrientated radiation cannot be a source of energy. There has to be a gradient so that more energetic radiation can move down to a low energy sink in order for work to be done” You are 100% correct. This is exactly what a dipole is. It breaks the symmetry of the symmetrical vacuum energy. The + and – poles on a battery IS the gradient that gets the vacuum energy to move into order. Disorder to order. Chaos to order. The aether moves towards the poles on the battery then flow over the wires inducing electron current to light a bulb (in a closed loop of course). In an open loop, the heaviside flow can flow without inducing electron current.

The only gain is a RADIANT gain and this can’t be done with electrons since electrons are mass indicating work being done. Anyway, that is where a battery gets the energy to do work, which does NOT ever come from the electrolytes, which only do one thing…that is to separate their own internal charges to be able to create that gradient.

Bearden mentions the magnetic bubble in Sweet’s magnets. Bedini, who actually used to wind coils for Sweet said there is no bubble in the magnets. I don’t know what the case is. Maybe both and they both worked. In Sweet’s paper, “Something for Nothing” he says that the energy is one dimentional north and one dimentional south charges that are attracted to a rotational magnetic field. Bedini says the aether is neutral. FYI…Check out Bedini’s latest radiant energizer.
http://www.icehouse.net/john34/kron.html

qiman13, Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 4:45 pm Post subject: open loop – closed loop comparison
So everyone can see the difference between an open loop and closed loop, the first image is the open loop circuit by John.

The 2nd pic is Marcus Wagner’s modification. It basically turns the radiant cold sg charger into a hot charger that really pushes the batteries hard and fast! Very good hot charger for sure. Bedini’s, look at how the battery getting charged is wired. Marcus’ takes the 2nd battery and runs the negative back into the common ground and that closes the loop. That lets electrons get induced into movement and this causes a lot of current draw from battery #1 (input batt).

Bedini’s SG schematic, the neg on batt #2 goes back to the + of batt #1. No electron current there!

I hope this helps to clarify the concept of an open loop and closed loop.

ninja, Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 6:07 pm Post subject:
This is a great write-up by Bearden on what and how to utilize PURE POTENTIAL in open loop systems.
http://www.geocities.com/Area51/Shadowlands/9654/bearden/poed.html

Simon, Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 7:54 pm Post subject:
Hi qiman would the wheels off a bike like this do? they are 12″ does that matter?

qiman13, Posted: Mon Mar 14, 2005 12:57 pm Post subject: bike wheel
Hi Simon, That wheel will work great as long as it is plastic. 12″ is a good size. Actually all sizes are good depending on their application.

With that wheel, you’ll be focusing on producing radiant anyway and not focusing on torque, so you’ll be fine. Just make sure that it free spins VERY WELL. Being a bike wheel, it probably will.

Simon, Posted: Mon Mar 14, 2005 3:24 pm Post subject:
Cool thanks for that… im now looking at getting a brand new mountain buggy wheel for $30 NZ. I want to get a new wheel because the bearings will be new and should spin nicely.

Simon, Posted: Mon Mar 14, 2005 4:26 pm Post subject:
also for the trigger wire does it have to be 20 guage? cause i can only get 21, does that matter?

ninja, Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 3:13 pm Post subject:
Aside from the radiant energy pulsing which seems would work best for liberating hydrogen and oxygen from water, I have come across the only other viable theory of operation of which Stanley Meyer used.

The Electron Cascade Effect http://homepage.ntlworld.com/ufophysics/electroncas.htm
This effect was patented by a Patrick Flanagan. “The process of creating an electron avalanche, or cascade, begins with applying a large electric field to a gas or body of air (at normal temperatures) to knock out of the atoms a few electrons so that they are then accelerated by the electric field. With the extra energy imparted to a few free electrons they will soon impact upon other atoms to knock off more electrons. These secondary events are sufficient even if there is only a small number of free electrons since these can liberate new electrons after being accelerated by the field. In this way, electron multiplication proceeds in a geometrical progression.”

It is very interesting to not that this process of “electron cascade” uses:
1. In it’s ideal arangement little to no current.
2. Consists of a capacitor arangement where the dielectric extends further then the electrodes and can surround said electrodes.
3. There exists a building up of effect before the electron cascade reaches it’s greatest state.
4. The electron cascade is effected within the dielectric itself.

The most important reason for this being the ONLY other viable theory for Stanley Meyer’s operation, other then using radiant energy (negative electricity,lw,etc.), is that Meyer’s descriptions of his WFC’s function in his patents and tech papers describes this process exactly. Here are some excerpts: “Water in the fuel cell is subjected to a pulsating, polar electric field produced by the electrical circuit whereby the water molecules are distended by reason of their subjection to electrical polar forces of the capacitor plates.” -Meyer

“The polar pulsating frequency applied is such that the pulsating electric field induces a resonance in the molecule. A cascade effect occurs and the overall energy level of specific water molecules is increased in cascading, incremental steps. The hydrogen and oxygen atomic gases, and other gas components formerly entrapped as dissolved gases in water, are released when the resonant energy exceeds the covalent bonding force of the water molecule.” -Meyer

I see two ways of being able to break the covalent bonds of water molecules:
1. Use Radiant Energy in the form of PURE voltage POTENTIAL which would induce ZERO electron current flow from electrode to electrode. The idea with this method is to just break the covalent bonds of the water molecule with the shear potential applied.
2. Use a setup like the electron cascade generator and keep the electron current as low as possible. In this setup Radiant Energy isn’t required. Also in this setup the applied voltage at any given time must be LESS then the breakdown voltage of the water between the electrodes. In this setup the idea would be to build up the energy level and force a electron cascade effect and then turn off the pulse and restart again.

MORE ON ALL THIS LATER. Let me know what you all think. Peace All! For those interested, me and qiman13 setup a yahoo group to host files and progress and we acheive it. Feel free to join if you are so inclined.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/radianth2o/

qiman13, Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 5:13 pm Post subject: trigger wire and wheel
Simon, The bike wheel might work better. If the dune buggy wheel is pretty wide, that might not be very practical and if the rim is steel or iron or something, then it won’t be good. For the trigger wire, 21 is fine. 18 power and 21 trigger. That will work good.

qiman13, Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 5:24 pm Post subject: electron cascade
I’m definitely partial to the radiant, but what you describe is the best description of the concept of this that I’ve seen. If it can be done with this effect and not radiant then that is great because it might be easier. If radiant wasn’t what Meyer was doing, then maybe we can pioneer the new frontier. I’ll show details on my radiant energizer. 4863 rpm and it is pumping out a LOT of radiant! You can’t believe how strong the output batteries are charging and the input battery hardly drops after a long time! The transistors get cooler than room temp little by little and then just. When I had small batteries on the output, it only went 2600 rpm. The larger battery on the output, the more I take from the output, the more it gives up!!!

Simon, Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 5:40 pm Post subject: Re: trigger wire and wheel
qiman13 wrote: Simon, The bike wheel might work better. If the dune buggy wheel is pretty wide, that might not be very practical and if the rim is steel or iron or something, then it won’t be good. For the trigger wire, 21 is fine. 18 power and 21 trigger. That will work good.

The wheel is standard size and about the same width as the bike wheel and its also plastic… i checked it with a magnet to be sure and its not magnetic. I got all the electronic bits today and we will hopefully be putting it together in the next few weeks! i cant wait

chemelec, Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 9:02 pm Post subject:
In the Schematic Above, Using the D880 Transistor (Actually a 2SD880), Can someone Explain to me What Exactially “In Simple Terms” that this is supposed to Accomplish? Looking at the Electronics, All it appears to do is Charge one battery from another, Using the Inductive Kickback between coils to give a Voltage boost, Allowing this to happen.

Don’t give me a bunch of Links, I’m on Slow Dial up and don’t have a lot of time to Research this. I Addition , the Transformer 2 X 450 turns of Number 20 awg, Does it have a Iron Core? Your drawings are very sketchy.

To the person that asked about the 21 AWG Wire, Almost any wire of a reasonble size should work fine. Take care………..Gary

Simon, Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 9:52 pm Post subject:
chemelec wrote: To the person that asked about the 21 AWG Wire, Almost any wire of a reasonble size should work fine. That was me, i asked because qiman said to follow the design exactly…

chemelec, Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 8:14 am Post subject:
Hi Simon, From what I have seen of this design, I really doubt the coil is that Critical. There are no Current or Inductance values given. Not even sure if there is a recommended Ferrite or Iron Core. Besides the difference between a 20 and 21 gauge wire is pretty small.

Simon, Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 10:12 am Post subject:
chemelec wrote: Hi Simon, From what I have seen of this design, I really doubt the coil is that Critical. There are no Current or Inductance values given. Not even sure if there is a recommended Ferrite or Iron Core. Besides the difference between a 20 and 21 gauge wire is pretty small.

Hi Gary, yeah i just wanted to make sure so i can get the best results possible

Simon, Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 1:37 pm Post subject:
woo hoo got all the electronic bits today in now going to try and make a winding jig like Chris from oupower.com has…. http://oupower.com/index.php?dir=_My_Projects/_Shop_Projects/Winding_Jig Its a great idea i reckon

qiman13, Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 3:37 pm Post subject: d880 transistor
Use a MJL21194 transistor in a T03PBL body for the higher voltages. If you can’t find the TO3PBL body, use the lower voltage rated one.

That D880 is just being extravagant I believe. That is Marcus Wagner’s “modified” version of Bedini’s SG. Your analysis of the electronics is what it appears to be on the surface, but it is not what is happening. Look at the diode leaving the collecter (don’t look at the schematic with that tv transistor) that schematic turns a radiant schematic into a hot charger.

The diode leaving the collector picks off the radiant spike, which has no electron current. That goes to the battery you are charging. It has absolutely nothing to do with using the back emf or any such thing as it might seem.

The yahoo groups links and Bedini’s homepage link that were given in the beginning of this forum are the best ones if you are able to do some research.

For the coil, use 18 for power wire and 20 for trigger. Or 20 power and 21 trigger. Either will work. Twist them together (before winding them on the coil) for more efficiency. Wrap that twisted wire pair around the spool about 900 turns. Make sure that the impedance of the coil is low as possible. Easy way is to just make sure the resistance from one end to the other is very minimal.

As a matter of fact, the trigger wire can be the same size as the power wire, but I would recommend using slightly smaller to start out. For the core, use welding rod cut to length and bundled together. Never use a solid core. It turns off too slow.

qiman13, Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 4:09 pm Post subject: coil importance
The coil is extremely imporant. There is not one single component or aspect of this schematic that is not that important. Every piece is crucial to consider. That becomes apparent when you start to fine tune the energizer. A few ohms difference in the reistor at the base can make a big difference in efficiency. Impedance matching is important. You have to think of the circuit as a gas pressure control system, since the aether acts exactly like a gas under pressure.

For example, on one motor I just put together, with a 12volt 1.5amphour gel cell battery on one side and a 6volt on the outputsmaller amphour..the motor gets up to about 2600 rpm and outputs so much radiant. That is because with the higher impedance on the back end, it is acting like a pressure relief valve with a tight spring. The motor can only open up so much.

When I put the same kind of battery on the back end 12volt, etc… The energizer speeds up to 4800 rpm and output a hell of a lot more radiant into the battery. That is because it is like having a pressure relief valve with a looser spring or you can picture it having the ports on a head bored up or having racing headers instead of a stock exhaust manifold. It lets more out with less back pressure.

That is what is happening. It isn’t an electrical schematic, it is a device that moves the heaviside flow around under different pressures. It is a valve for gas. Having the coil built in one way can have incredible results, build it another way and it will have not so great results. They will both work and as a matter of fact, you can take the wire and just fill out the spool and it will work without worrying about how many turns, but it is good to start out at a baseline or default setting to work from.

After getting the hang of having a single power and single trigger wire on your coil, you’ll learn to have 4 wires on a coil. 1 trigger and 3 power wires. One transistor setup for each wire.

Then picture multiple coils and they are still all triggered by the one single trigger wire so they are all synchronized. The rest of the coils will have 4 power wires each going to their own transistor. You’ll be shooting yourself in the foot jumping ahead, just do one trigger and one power for now.

All wires will need to be twisted together. That is making a longitudinal transformer and not a typical coil transformer. Anyway, it is important to twist wires tightly together, but not ridiculously tight. Winding around coil should be very nice and orderly without bunching up anything. It is easy to be fooled by the simplicity of the schematic and it is doing everything opposite of what you think it will be doing.

qiman13, Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 4:19 pm Post subject:
Just FYI…this is the process Bedini does for building these. http://www.icehouse.net/john34/kron.html

Simon wrote: woo hoo got all the electronic bits today in now going to try and make a winding jig like Chris from oupower.com has….
http://oupower.com/index.php?dir=_My_Projects/_Shop_Projects/Winding_Jig
Its a great idea i reckon

chemelec, Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 4:27 pm Post subject:
Simon, That winding machine is OK for Occassional coils and that calculator idea is also good and cheap. But I wind a LOT of coils so I modified my metal laithe so I can use the origional motor or a small sewing machine motor with a foot control. No great amount of Power, but Perfect for winding. Additionally I have an Up / Down Counter operated by Hall Effect Devices(Magnet Detection) to count turns Added or Removed. I also have Vacuum Equipment for High Voltage Potting of Coils.

Quiman, As To Impedance Verses Resistance. I Totally Disagree. You can have a VERY LOW Resistance, But it Can be a VERY HIGH Impedance, or Visa Versa. And is this wound on a Core, Ferrite or Iron, or Air Wound. That can make a Huge Difference.

ninja, Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 5:22 pm Post subject:
chemelec, The schematics you are looking at and the ideas of low impedence and what not relating to the Bedini device CANNOT be analyzed like an electronic device, as you seem to want to do.

This device, once built, has everything to do with gas control systems. The Radiant Energy that is routed and released with this device acts more like gas then electricity. Telsa spent much of his life in regards to utilizing this mysterious Radiant Energy. Read “Secrets of Cold War Technology” for a great 80 page chapter on Tesla’s real workings and relationship to Radiant Energy.

Please stop making hard assumptions about the Radiant Energy device employed here when you don’t understand it’s workings. Bedini has said time and again that: EVERY single engineer that tried to duplicate his simple Radiant Energy generator felt that they could change something in it, EXACTLY like you are doing, and guess what, NONE of those engineers could make it work as Bedini had said and called him a fraud. In the end, Bedini said, it took only a simple SCHOOL GIRL that got it working because he said she simply DUPLICATED HIS PLANS WITHOUT QUESTION and guess what, she won first place trouphies up through the state level in science fairs for her Bedini setup.

It’s as simple as that. Unless you built one, you CANNOT discuss it’s workings or make assumptions and critiques. And only after building one can you make cahnges and learn to control the Radiant Energy.

Simon, Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 6:06 pm Post subject:
qiman13 wrote: Just FYI…this is the process Bedini does for building these. http://www.icehouse.net/john34/kron.html
Simon wrote: woo hoo got all the electronic bits today in now going to try and make a winding jig like Chris from oupower.com has….
http://oupower.com/index.php?dir=_My_Projects/_Shop_Projects/Winding_Jig

Its a great idea i reckon man that looks mighty impressive! qiman what is the advantage of having multiple coils like that? Also i have another question about the coil winding from looking at John’s pictures. When you wind it on do you need to be twisting the cables together? it just looked like they were. Also does the winding need to be precise ie from one side to the other like how spools of solder are wound on.

qiman13, Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 9:21 pm Post subject: resistance/impedance
The point I was making is that if you have a coil of a certain wire lets say 18 and it is 900 turns, if you remove 100 turns, the resistance drops, generally the impedance in the coil will be less (IN THE CIRCUIT AS A WHOLE). It is an impedance balancing act between the input all the way to the output. By looking at the resistance on an ohm meter on the coil, the lower the better and in the circuit as a whole, the imedance should be reduced as well.

Either way, this is from Peter Lindemann who is qualified to speak on the resistance of this specific circuit: “There are windows of best performance for each of these factors. Tesla said we want a situation where there is 1) high self-induction,

2) uniform distributed capacitance, and 3) lower resistance. When your coil design BALANCES all of these factors FOR ITS SCALE, you will get the best results, no matter what size you build it.” and Your discussion about lowering the impedance of the primary coil needs one more piece of information.

> What can be said is that you should try to make the impedance of your (primary) coil as low as possible, which means at least reducing the DC resistance component as much as possible. This means using as thick of a wire are possible for your primary. Also try shortening the length of the primary (and secondary since it is 1:1) to reduce the DC resistance.

There is a limit to shortening the coil where you no longer have enough INDUCTANCE to trigger the transistor properly. Total length of wire translates generally into number of turns on the coil.

It’s a balancing act between all of these factors. Peter

I hope that clears it up even if my explation isn’t the best. Quiman, As To Impedance Verses Resistance. I Totally Disagree. You can have a VERY LOW Resistance, But it Can be a VERY HIGH Impedance, or Visa Versa. And is this wound on a Core, Ferrite or Iron, or Air Wound. That can make a Huge Difference.[/quote]

qiman13, Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 9:28 pm Post subject: multi coils
Multiple coils is all the more radiant you can collect. The magnet wire (power wire and trigger wire) is twisted together to make a twisted wire composed of those 2 wires. Once those wires are twisted together, then you wind them on the spool.

Make sure to wind it the correct direction so that the top of the coil becomes NORTH when you apply + to the top of the coil and – to the bottom of the coil. Plenty of resources on the internet to figure out which direction to wind it.

Make them as precise as practical from one side to another. The coil will work if you don’t twist the wires, but I would say it is worth it because it does add to the efficiency.

Simon, Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 10:15 pm Post subject: Re: multi coils
qiman13 wrote: Multiple coils is all the more radiant you can collect. The magnet wire (power wire and trigger wire) is twisted together to make a twisted wire composed of those 2 wires. Once those wires are twisted together, then you wind them on the spool.

Make sure to wind it the correct direction so that the top of the coil becomes NORTH when you apply + to the top of the coil and – to the bottom of the coil. Plenty of resources on the internet to figure out which direction to wind it.

Make them as precise as practical from one side to another. The coil will work if you don’t twist the wires, but I would say it is worth it because it does add to the efficiency. Thanks qiman you’ve cleared that up nicely…. got any tips for winding the coil? in particular if its possible to wind trigger and power wire while winding it onto the spool. Also i got a 2N3055 transistor instead of the MJL21194, what advantages does the MJL21194 have over the 2N3055? I think i’ll order a MJL21194 because it relates to the diagram you’ve posted on the first page.

Murray, Posted: Thu Mar 17, 2005 5:59 am Post subject:
Welcome Ninja ! you wrote Quote: The Electron Cascade Effect http://homepage.ntlworld.com/ufophysics/electroncas.htm

This effect was patented by a Patrick Flanagan. “The process of creating an electron avalanche, or cascade, begins with applying a large electric field to a gas or body of air (at normal temperatures) to knock out of the atoms a few electrons so that they are then accelerated by the electric field. With the extra energy imparted to a few free electrons they will soon impact upon other atoms to knock off more electrons. These secondary events are sufficient even if there is only a small number of free electrons since these can liberate new electrons after being accelerated by the field. In this way, electron multiplication proceeds in a geometrical progression.”

It is very interesting to not that this process of “electron cascade” uses:
1. In it’s ideal arangement little to no current.
2. Consists of a capacitor arangement where the dielectric extends further then the electrodes and can surround said electrodes.
3. There exists a building up of effect before the electron cascade reaches it’s greatest state.
4. The electron cascade is effected within the dielectric itself.

I also came to that conclusion some time ago, you posted a great link, thanks! The Electron Cascade Effect
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/ufophysics/electroncas.htm .

I have been describing it to people by similar means, using these links on neon tubes
http://acept.la.asu.edu/PiN/rdg/optical/optical.shtml
http://www.signweb.com/neon/cont/mercurymigrate.html

If you haven’t got your hands on this info I strongly suggest you do, you will find more detail. videos here http://www.nutech2000.com/category7_1.htm

hydrogen fracturing process here http://www.conspiration.net/watercar/ (Meyer.rar)

The most popular patents can be found herehttp://www.fortunecity.com/greenfield/bp/16/stanleymeyer.htm (Zipped)

Take particular note of these two patents below
Gas generator voltage control circuit
Method for the production of a fuel gas

news release http://www.icubenetwork.com/files/watercar/non-commercial/stanley_meyer/

Also be aware that a electron inhibitor is necessary to raise voltage and keep a 1mm gap for electron collision (resonant cavity gas production) In the Gas generator voltage control circuit patent a resistor is used for this purpose. The update patent to this – Method for the production of a fuel gas there is a varible inductor on the negative side of the VIC circuit that uses a magnetic field to deflect electrons.

figure 8 of the Gas generator voltage control circuit patent describes the process well. Also food for thought, in the xogen patent the resistance that I refer to above is given by the transistor (I will use this in my prototype) Also it is in my opinion higher voltages cause higher electrostatic forces. This will bring on electron colisions when using xogens pulsing circuit. The patent makes reference to any power supplies from those skilled in the art can be utilized.(very important for higher efficiencies, just my belief at present). glad were speaking the same language. email me anytime, cheers. Murray

qiman13, Posted: Thu Mar 17, 2005 11:37 am Post subject: Re: multi coils
For winding the wire, you get 2 spools of wire. Trigger and power wire. Pull them out about 150 feet, hook to a drill and be careful not to bunch it all up. then you wrap by hand around the spool that you are turning into your coil. That is basically how John does it. Probably can twist them as you wind them but trial and error will tell you what works best.

The MJL21194’s especially in the TO3PBL body has a higher voltage rating and are quicker I believe. When you build the circuit, you’ll get x amount of output. After you at least have that, I’ll give you info on tuning it and will tell you how to take that same circuit and pull off more radiant without adding any extra input.

One thing to keep in mind is to have various rated resistors to tune the circuit (I’ll tell you how to do that). And also, have extra 1n4007 diodes. I’ll tell you later what to do with those. Also, have various size wires and cables for hooking up the battery, etc…

qiman13, Posted: Thu Mar 17, 2005 3:17 pm Post subject: expanded water molecule
Wiseman at Eagle Research said that in his see-thru bg cell, the bubbles are created exactly half way in between the plates.

Would that be consistant with an electron cascade effect? I thinks Meyers gas is basically Brown’s Gas (bg) but a lot more of it and a lot volume and more efficiently produced.

What do you think about this concept: It is known that electrons sustain from the virtual photon energy. They are in perpetual motion, since with their small mass and their great speed, they cannot sustain off of some initial push of kinetic energy, which of course would be ridiculous to claim.

The are open systems like any other open dissipative system. Now, if water was to absorb radiant voltage potential, wouldn’t it be almost safe to say that the electrons in the h20 are going to pick up speed because of the increased energy level?

That alone could turn a liquid water molecule into a gas state, while still being a totally intact water molecule. The distance between the H’s and O could be slightly further apart as well. Wiseman believes that the bg is an expanded water molecule and I think absorbing voltage potential will increase the energy state of the h2o molecule in this way so I agree with Wiseman that it is an expanded water molecule. This could be the case and Meyers could totally be unaware of it.

The Electron Cascade Effect paper is interesting because of talking about increasing the electron spin for antigravity. That is exactly what Frederick Alzofon did. See Electric Space Craft Journal issue #13 I believe. “The Alzofon Papers.” Apply the electron spin accelerator to an aluminum sphere and it turns lighter on balance beam. The off/on pulses polarizes everything in the aluminum and it starts to weigh less. Can be done with other non-ferrous metals but aluminum works best.

On one test with a spool of magnet wire as a choke to demo the choke concept, I was able to deliver higher voltage and less amps to the wfc so the choke restricting electron flow concept is valid. However, if starting with radiant to begin with, I don’t see how the choke is even necessary since it isn’t electron current to begin with. My next test with my modified SG circuit going to a wfc, I’ll put a choke after the diode anyway to see the difference. Maybe it will help. I’ll post the results.

When figuring out what the choke did, besides limit electron flow, on my scope, the frequency stayed identical but the voltage was all inverted negative going to the cell after the choke. Anyone see that as well?

qiman13, Posted: Thu Mar 17, 2005 3:22 pm Post subject: Re: multi coils
Forgot to tell you. The 2N3055 will still work but not as well. Thanks qiman you’ve cleared that up nicely…. got any tips for winding the coil? in particular if its possible to wind trigger and power wire while winding it onto the spool. Also i got a 2N3055 transistor instead of the MJL21194, what advantages does the MJL21194 have over the 2N3055? I think i’ll order a MJL21194 because it relates to the diagram you’ve posted on the first page.[/quote]

qiman13, Posted: Thu Mar 17, 2005 4:52 pm Post subject: the math for radiant energy
Bedini says this guys math is correct. http://home.wanadoo.nl/raccoon/ I’m not interested in the math myself, but I know some of you are. Just fyi

qiman13, Posted: Fri Mar 18, 2005 11:31 am Post subject: timely quote
Bedini just posted this on Bedini_SG yahoo group: (just fyi)

This is the way i feel about all you that want to waist your time on the math for this machine. This is the best quote that explains it the best. The quote was from Lost Science by Gerry Vassilatos and believe me he knew what he was talking about.

Tesla believed that radiant electricity is composed of “Aether Gas”. He based this belief on the fact that his zero current coils were not conducting the”slow dense” charges usually observed in ordinary electrical circuits. Abrupt impulses produced distinctive and different effects…. fluidic effects. The qualities ascribed by

Tesla to “electricity” or things “electrical” in his numerous patents texts and press interviews are those which refer to the aether gas.” Tesla did not refer to electron currents as “electricity”. He did not equate “electricity” with electron flow”. Whenever Tesla spoke of “electrical” effects he always described their effusive, gaseous quality.

Aether, in Tesla’s lexicon, was space flowing electricity: a gas of superlative and transcendent qualities. Aether was electricity which filled all of space, a vast reservoir of unsurpassable power, Motive, dynamic, and free for the taking. Tesla also said that their was no way the Maxwell equations could work with this technology because of it’s nature. John

qiman13, Posted: Fri Mar 18, 2005 11:47 am Post subject: tuning the resistor
How to tune the resistor on the SG: Hook a scope to the base and slowly turn the rotor but fast enough to induce the base to trigger. Watch the scope and you might see 4 or 5 spikes per trigger. That is NOT a good thing even though it seems you’re getting lots of spikes for one pulse.

As the rotor speeds up, the spikes get less and less, it might have 2 or 3 spikes per pulse when up to speed. Basically, you want to get the resistor set so that you only get 1 (ONE) and only 1 spike per pulse. Then the resistor is tuned. If you don’t have a scope, you can use a little pocket radio and you will hear the spikes. Tune it so you hear one spike per pulse.

Instead of the 680 ohm resistor, which you should use to begin with to make sure the circuit works, then you can use a variable pot 1-2 k works fine…use a good one not a crappy one because you will burn it out.

So trigger wire to pot to maybe a 100ohm resistor to the trigger base, that way you can measure the exact resistance you need to get the ONE spike per pulse. Other tuning tips are to use as short of leads as possible. Have the output wires straight or bent at 90 degree angles instead of curves…the radiant likes to flow over this kind of wire instead of one that has a lot of bends, kinks, turns. straight lines!

Get the SG running with regular (smaller) wires from the input battery and to the output battery. When everything is running, you can replace the battery lead wires with fat monster cables. You will get a LOT more radiant through the circuit. Be careful not to kill your transistors.

Now, when you get it running with one diode coming off the collector going to battery #2 +, well just connect 3 more of the same diodes to the SAME collector and connect each of those to the + on 3 other like batteries and make sure all those battery grounds are connected together so they all go back to the + on the input battery.

How can you pull off more radiant to charge batteries without having to input more? Well, all that radiant is produced anyway. The one diode can only have so much surface area for the heaviside flow to go over to the battery.

With more diodes, you have more surface area to carry that radiant. You can experiement with connecting all 4 diodes to one battery one the output, but you’ll be more suprised that 4 batteries will charge at the same rate as one will charge with the exact same input.

You’re taking X amount of flow and dividing it up. The one diode by itself can’t carry all the flow, just a part of it. Remember, the Poynting flow was only calculated to be the part of the flow that was diverged into the copper wire to induce the electrons to flow, which by the way flow about 1 cm to a few inches per hour. VERY SLOW! It is the heaviside flow that flows at the speed of light in a closed circuit with current.

As soon as you have that heaviside flow going over the circuit in an open loop and there is no electron movement to limit the speed of the heaviside flow, the aether flowing is now faster than the speed of light. Virtually instantaneous longitudinal impulses.

It is the Heaviside flow, which includes ALL the flow going over the wires. Poynting thought the rest was irrelevant. So, a sailboat on the ocean has x amount of wind hitting the sails and the rest of the wind over the ocean doesn’t matter. So, a cup scooping water from a river and the claim is made that only what is in the potential and the rest of the river doesn’ matter. Well, that is just ridiculous and that is what is taught in school. Oh well, those tips up above will get you going somewhere fast!

Simon, Posted: Sat Mar 19, 2005 12:13 am Post subject:
Hey Qiman just wanted to say thanks for giving us all this great info! cant wait to get stuck into building and testing

qiman13, Posted: Sat Mar 19, 2005 10:38 am Post subject: more tips
That is great Simon! I’m excited that you’re ready to rock! Another couple things:

On the input battery, you can place a cap that is over 20 volts and about 100k uf on the terminals. + to + and – to -. To that big cap, put a smaller 10k uf cap over 20 volts onto the same terminals. That acts like a buffer and smooths out the output spikes to get cleaner radiant inpulses. More efficient.

The purpose of having it 20volts or more is just to be at least a few over the battery voltage, because the cap will just sit at whatever the batt voltage is and you want a little head room. Big cap to batt #1 and small cap to big cap.Doesn’t really matter how you look at it, all the +’s are connected and all the -‘s are connected. But for simplicity, solder the small cap to the big cap then connect the big cap to the input batt.

Also, when you figure out the resistance, a light bulb similar to a brake light bulb can be put inline with the resistor going to the base or outright replacing the resistor. You’ll just have to experiment with that or check the yahoo groups that I posted links to for further clarification.

That chews up electrons in addition to providing a smoothing effect on the pulses going to the base. It helps the energizer find the “sweet spot” better. Just some tuning enhancement. Make sure the transistors are heat sinked even if you don’t feel any heat from them. Mount them to a flat piece of aluminum for example. That is VERY important.

qiman13, Posted: Sat Mar 19, 2005 10:54 am Post subject: spark plugs
These spark plugs are just asking to be tried in an engine using browns gas or any othe water gas.
http://www.robertstanley.biz/firestorm.htm

Not in production yet (if ever), but they are from Robert Krupa who invented the split fire spark plug. They produce a plasma ball in the cylinder and will never wear out and an engine can be leaned out to 40:1 air:fuel ratio. Imagine what it will do to the water fuel???

You can probably modify an existing plug to do similar. Check out the patent (US Patent #) 6,060,822 www.uspto.gov or or www.espacenet.com for patents This plug really puts ALL spark plugs to shame. Should be called plasma plugs.

DORRO, Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2005 4:55 am Post subject: New Wheel made
Hi Group, For all those who do not believe in magnetic scalars! My new wheel is now running, on my old coil. But it runs whichever way the coil is polarised…it should only run one way! I mean, if connected in the conventional way, the magnet’s field triggers the base, and the coil attracts the scalar. But with mine connected in reverse, the scalar triggers the base, and the coil attracts the magnet’s field….strange! Any comments?? dorro.

chemelec, Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2005 10:37 am Post subject:
Quiman13, How About This? http://www3.telus.net/chemelec/Projects/Qiman13/Qiman13.htm

qiman13, Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2005 1:06 pm Post subject: chemelec’s schematic
That looks like a schematic that Marcus Wagner would draw. Interesting. The battery charger hooked to the input battery can work but the input battery can only receive charging power when the input battery isn’t connected thru the transistor since a battery can only charge or power at one time. Can’t do both simultaneously. Sometimes I hook a solar cell directly to the input battery. It can only receive with the pulse is off of course.

The power inverter connected to the output batteries: The ground of the output batteries seems to be connected back to the ground of the input battery If so, then that is forcing the output back to the input ground closing the loop and it will wind up killing the source dipole, which is the input battery. Closing the loop like that allows the heaviside flow to induce electron current and it will get hot.

All the output batteries grounds are connected directly to the input battery ground…that will kill the input battery VERY FAST. It will be a very good HOT charger, but is a good way to kill the input battery. That would work well for charging batteries if you take the power input from the wall and you’re not worried about efficiency, then you’ll have about the hardest pushing battery charger you can find (hot charger that is)

To correct that, the – of the output batts need to be connected to the positive of the input battery to turn it back into a radiant charger. If the inverter/charger setup isolates the output battery ground and the input ground, then the loop stays open and it should work. I’ll post something below regarding sending power back to the input battery.

Smoothing caps, can be a really good idea. I don’t know much about a d880 transistor, but I’d use a MJL21194 in a TO3PBL body. The faster diode with less voltage drop mentioned elsewhere might be a good idea, just have to try it.

I don’t know about that resistor at the base, but as long as it is tuned will be ok. The amp meter on the – of the input battery will show you a reading of a low input reading. The amp meter on the – of the output batts will show you a high amp output reading. It looks like you’re getting a lot more amps out than in and will be fooled into believing the unit itself is way overunity. However, that is a metering trick that I described before. Both meters added together is actually the total input. It is NOT registering the output.

Anyway, if you take the amp meter on the – of the input battery and put it on the + of the input battery, you will find the magic goes away. (while the output ground is shoved back into the input ground.

Look at this picture (below), this is a very old school energizer Bedini made long ago. Look at the switch, the input battery is connected part of the time and the momentum carrys it around and disconnects the input battery, then it connects the energizer back to the input battery to charge it up. Then the energizer disconnects and the momentum carries it to reconnect the batt to power the motor. And on and on. That is how to have the machine power its own battery if you’re using mechanical switches.

You can do it with transistors / optocoupler (to isolate the input from the output), etc… This is the concept: Find when the input battery is shut off. Something happens when that battery is shut off, like the base is turned off for example. Using NPN’s or PNP’s, you can figure a way to send a signal to a transistor that turns off the input battery + connection. At that very moment, a capacitor in place of one of the output batteries is discharged into the input battery. As soon as that happens, the battery + is reconnected. I would do it with a capacitor. You can probably figure a way to have an output diode send a pulse to the input battery at a moment when the + of the input battery is disconnected.

An optocoupler (like a small transistor but the power and trigger aren’t physically connected), the base is triggered and an infrared pulse is sent to turn on the collector to emitter. That is a good way to prevent the circuits from touching each other. I hope this helps. If you can do it with transistors so you don’t need mechanical switches, that would be really neat! Others are trying to send the output back to the input while the input is still connected.

One comment on doing it with a capacitor. The capacitor will be discharging in pulses VERY QUICK. For example, discharging the cap very rapidly, the cap might just sit at about 50 volts while the machine is running. Each pulse only hits the battery it goes to very quickly then shuts off. The cap doesn’t ever fully discharge. So, the machine doesn’t have to replace very much in the cap since the cap is really only hitting the battery with VOLTAGE POTENTIAL. You’re hitting it with a pressure of 50volts very rapidly, but the machine doesn’t have to recharge the cap fully each time. Only a fraction to have it back up to the max.

A good cap to start with is maybe a 300v 330uf cap from a disposable camera flash unit. Many stores that develop film sends the used disposable cameras back to have parts recycled. If you tell them you’re working on a project, they’ll often just give you a handful or even a bag fool of the cameras after they took the film out of them. Free caps! Of course the lower the capacitance the faster the cap will charge to a high voltage. Depending on the voltage of the spikes on the output, the cap could charge to a few hundred volts at 0.1uf for example and it will charge to a few hundred volts in a fraction of a second. 30,000uf, maybe a few seconds.

I’ve gone all the way to charging 330,000uf at about 16 volts dumping that into 12v batts. That is quite a kick to the batts. That schematic comes from: http://www.icehouse.net/john34/bearden.html Read that entire page.

chemelec wrote: Quiman13, How About This? http://www3.telus.net/chemelec/Projects/Qiman13/Qiman13.htm [img][/img]

qiman13, Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2005 1:08 pm Post subject: Re: New Wheel made
That is weird. The motor will run with the coil N upside or S upside. It works better with N on top though.

DORRO wrote: Hi Group, For all those who do not believe in magnetic scalars! My new wheel is now running, on my old coil. But it runs whichever way the coil is polarised…it should only run one way! I mean, if connected in the conventional way, the magnet’s field triggers the base, and the coil attracts the scalar.

But with mine connected in reverse, the scalar triggers the base, and the coil attracts the magnet’s field….strange! Any comments?? dorro.

qiman13, Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2005 1:18 pm Post subject: self powered
P.S. The torque of the wheel itself can be utilized as a similar energizer on the above schematic. The energizer output can be sent back to the input batt. The machine needs to be scaled up a bit and configured for torque.

Simon, Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2005 11:52 am Post subject:
Hey Qiman here is our wheel! we are currently adapting it to fit skateboard bearings which will make it super fast! they are capable of 20,000RPM How many magnets would you suggest for this wheel? one for each spoke or should be go for 10 of them?

qiman13, Posted: Thu Mar 31, 2005 2:03 pm Post subject: wheel magnets
Hi Simon, The magnet quantity depends on the diameter of the wheel. What is it? 8, 10, 12″ + ? What are your magnet dimensions? Without knowing, I’d put on 8 magnets every 45 degrees. Then play with that. Adjust more magnets or less magnets to see what is more efficient. I will depend on your circuit/coil setup.

Also, you can have the wheel turn independently of the shaft or you can make it so the wheel and shaft turn together. If the shaft turns with the wheel, you’ll be able to do more like putting on mechanical switches, etc… turning pulleys, if necessary, etc…

Simon, Posted: Tue Apr 05, 2005 3:10 pm Post subject: Re: wheel magnets
qiman13 wrote: Hi Simon, The magnet quantity depends on the diameter of the wheel. What is it? 8, 10, 12″ + ? What are your magnet dimensions? Without knowing, I’d put on 8 magnets every 45 degrees. Then play with that. Adjust more magnets or less magnets to see what is more efficient. I will depend on your circuit/coil setup.

Also, you can have the wheel turn independently of the shaft or you can make it so the wheel and shaft turn together. If the shaft turns with the wheel, you’ll be able to do more like putting on mechanical switches, etc… turning pulleys, if necessary, etc…

Its about 9″ and the magnets i was going to use are 40mm x 25.4mm x 10mm

qiman13, Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 9:08 am Post subject: magnets
Hi Simon, Yeah, I would start with magnet every 45 degrees and get a feel for that. Then, space them tighter and further apart and see what that does but that diameter is good to start with every 45 degrees. I’ll post a video clip of my SG soon.

icemann, Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 12:20 pm Post subject: some questions
Hi qiman13, I am quite new to the bedini thing and not quite sure if I understood the school girls schematics correctly. so far I know that I have to use a wheel (not metalic) some magnets (also not metalic => ceramic ) built up the electronic parts, built the coil, hock it together. At this point my question starts. Is the wheel turnd by an engine (motor)? What is that rotor? If you talk about the WFC, do you mean that I just replace the charging batterie withe the wfc-capacitor? Hope my questions are not too simple an you will kindly give me some answers. Also Ihope my enlish is not too bad (I try to improve) Thanks iceman

DORRO, Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 2:35 pm Post subject:
Hi Simon, I don’t mean to be picky, but as you get to know the Bedini sg in more and more detail, you will see it actually runs in “attraction mode” to a sort of hidden magnetic field…..a scalar south pole, in between the north poles. It also turns Lenze’s law downside up and uses it to add torque and speed….unheard of in ant motor i know about. Kind regards and keep investigating. dorro

qiman13, Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 5:59 pm Post subject: Re: some questions
Hi Iceman, The wheel is actually the rotor and to start the machine, you have to just give the wheel a little soft spin and it kicks in by itself since it is self timing.

Yes, replace the charging battery with the WFC. I successfully made gas, the finest gas bubbles I ever saw with the current SG that I am experimenting with. Not enough to do anything practical with. I’m only using a small gel cell battery.

The wire on the coils are also only about 28 guage or smaller. Really tiny wire, but it is for testing purposes. I would use like 15guage power and 16 trigger. That is pretty big wire so be careful to find components that can handle the radiant spikes.

For practical use, the SG needs to be scaled up and the input needs to be 24volts or 36 would be better, but it is hard to find transistors that can handle the voltage from 36volts. Probably over 1000 volts output peaks. I want to scale up an SG so that it runs on 2-3 deep cycle batteries with larger wire 15 guage and multi coil. Please join the yahoo groups that are listed in the beginning of this thread.

icemann, Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2005 11:37 am Post subject: some more questions to qiman13
Hi qiman13, thanks for your fast answer! Does that mean if the device works propperly that the wheel keeps spinning b it self? is that perhaps little a proof of the function? I am planing to built a smale bedini-device based on a inline skater wheel. how many magnets do you suggest? At the moment I do only have metal based magnets of the size (L x W x H) 10 x 6 x 2 mm = 0.3937 x 0.2362 x 0.0787 inch

Must the magnets absolutly be ceramic based? Is it a problem if the bearing of the wheel is also metalbased? I plan to use 8 Magnets => every 45° Do you think it is a ood startin point. About the winding: How many windin would you suggest? I was planning 900 with small wire 0.25 mm thick wound in parallel last question: the batteries: in the school girl schcematic bedini used two 9V batteries. What kind of batteries do

I have you use I was planning to use the standard 9V block type. Do I have to use accu’s or can I use normal batteries? Thanks for your help icemann

qiman13, Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2005 7:09 pm Post subject: Re: some more questions to qiman13
Hi Iceman, The wheel only spins when the input battery is connected. When starting the wheel, it takes work to get it up to speed. When it is about 50% sped up, it kicks into resonance, that is because the scalar field is now chasing the pulse from the coil. It takes ZERO work for the wheel to spin once in resonance. The SG only takes power from the battery to power the coil but NOT to turn the rotor. It takes work to repel the magnet on the wheel, but not when the wheel is turned by attraction. If you put an amp meter on the input, a 12v 7ah gel cell battery may start going up to about 800-900 ma. BUT, half way through the speeding up of the rotor, the input amperage drops little by little until the rotor is at top speed and the input amps might drop down to about 200ma.

Just make sure your skate wheel spins VERY FREELY for a very long time or it won’t work very well. Try to just get it running with 4 magnets around the rotor. If it works right, then play with 8 magnets. 900 turns is pretty good. I would use about 18 guage or bigger for the power wire and 1 size smaller for the trigger wire. Lead Acid batteries seem to work the best with this system. Either sealed gel cells or like car batteries.

icemann, Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 7:48 am Post subject: and …
Thanks qiman13, I will try it! Do I have to take care of something special if I wind the coil? Must it be very accurate and parallel? Do you have some tip how to do this job more efficent? Some plans for a simple winding tool or something? Thanks a lot for your help so far! iceman

icemann, Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2005 9:44 am Post subject: questions on magnets
Hello, I have a question concerning the magnets. Must the magnets be bigger in size than the diameter of the iron core of the coil (so that the cover the whole iron core when they move over the core)? How high is normally the voltage if I just use one of the bifilar wounded coil an connect it to a multimeter and then turn manually the wheel with 4 magnets on it? The magnets in the test I did where only covering the middel of the iron core (magnets the size of the radius of the iron core, in a centered position)? I am asking to get just a hint to see if my coil has enougth windings for the magnets I use. Hope somebody can help me. Thanks iceman

qiman13, Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2005 4:35 pm Post subject: Re: questions on magnets
In the Bedini_SG yahoo group there is a lot of great info specifically on winding coils. Might be a good idea to have the magnets at least the diameter of the core of the coil.

As long as there is enough voltage to trigger your transistor you’re ok. The specs should be on the internet on a datasheet. 2n3055 or mjl21194 search for datasheets most likely in pdf and keep those for reference. I would start with about 900 turns on a coil, that should give you enough inductance.

Freedomfuel, Posted: Fri Apr 22, 2005 10:13 am Post subject:
Allow mw to interject with some irrelevant theoretical ramblings. Qiman has referred many times to someting called ‘radiant energy’ which has been described as an etherial, luminifreous, and fluid like energy that flows over the surface of conductors. My recent research suggests to me that this ‘radiant energy’ is really a magnetic wave and nothing to do with eletricity. I am coming to understand that magnetism has many more forms than is commonly recognized. It can be a space wave like EM waves except logitudianal, it can be flow along conductors (cold electricity), it can form molecular bonds (magnagas) and it can jump gaps. I believe that the giant sparks form Tesla coils are not streams of electrons but are instead luminiferous streams of magnetic energy.

Right now NASA are operating one of the most important space explorations ever with their Solar and Heliospheric Observatory spacecraft. These observations are providing information about how the sun really makes energy which will one day show us how to make energy on earth when the oil and gas runs out. The most important finding is that slow magnetic waves are heating the corona to millions of degrees. Clearly we are dealing with something here potentially more powerful and destructive than nuclear power. Will humanity reach sufficient maturity in fourty years time to use this energy source with restraint I wonder?

As for the Bedini school girl motor it seems unlikely to me that the coils are supplying magnetic energy to the batteries. Rather what is happening in the batteries is similar to some of the processes at work in ‘cold fusion’. In this example magnetic waves ar formed inside the cells. Here are some links worth studying:

Surfing Magnetic Waves in the Solar Atmosphere (Solar and Heliospheric Observatory) http://science.nasa.gov/newhome/headlines/ast08jul99_2.htm
Magnetism Is Key To Mystery Of the Sun http://www-solar.mcs.st-andrews.ac.uk/~robert/statement.html
Solar Wind Makes Waves; Killer Electrons Go Surfing? http://www.spacedaily.com/news/solarscience-03y.html
Do magnetic waves heat the solar atmosphere? http://academic.evergreen.edu/z/zita/talks/2003Portland/03APS.ppt

Now you can all go back to working out the nitty gritty of building ‘radiant energy’ devices

icemann, Posted: Sun May 15, 2005 9:00 am Post subject: Re: some questions
Hi I managed to get my device rotating. How can I figure out if it is in resonace. I just created a coil (1100 turns) a wheel (3 inche diameter) with 3 Magnets on it. It spins around 400rpm and draws 1.2A from the battery. I do not have a second battery connected to it (is that a must to bring the device in resonace??) Hope some one can give me some hints Thanks icemann

qiman13, Posted: Mon May 16, 2005 4:20 pm Post subject: resonance
Hook a amp meter to the input of your motor. As it speeds up, you’ll see that the amps input will go up to a certain point. Then, the amps input will start to go backwards as the rotor speeds up even more. When you see that happening, you know that is getting into resonance.

icemann, Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 8:38 am Post subject: three or bifilar?
Thanks so far! What is it about the third coil? Is it important to get resonance or does it work with only a bifilar coil also? Thanks icemann

qiman13, Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 8:59 am Post subject:
Hi Icemann, There is a version with 3 wires. 2 bifilar wound one way and a third wound in reverse…that reverse wire outputs through a bridge to a capacitor then is dumped to dead batteries. Make them all wound the same way, it is much more efficient. With the sg circuit, you can have 5 wires on one coil if you want. 1 trigger and 4 power wires all wound together. They are all twisted togther and wound at once. Each power wire has its own transistor setup. If you build the schematic right, you will get resonance automatically.

icemann, Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 10:31 am Post subject: ???
Hi qiman13, Thanks! If I understood you corectly my setup with just a power and a trigger winding the device should work if I can manage to get the wheel spin absolutly freely Isn’t it so?

What exactly did you mean with the input of the motor to place the amp meter in it? I placed the amp meter betwen the + wire from the motor to the running batterie and the + pole of the runnung batterie Is that what you mean by “input of the motor”? Thanks icemann

icemann, Posted: Sun May 22, 2005 9:37 am Post subject: just changed the wires
Hello, I testet to day my motor with much biger wires between the coils and the circuit (the change was just that). The funny thing is that the rotor does not spin any more. If I start to rotate it manually vey fast it runs for some seconds and then suddently slows donw very rapidly (as if the core of the coil is breaking it. Hoas anybody an idea why that is? The new wires are #10 gauge and the old wires were #15. icemann

qiman13, Posted: Sun May 22, 2005 11:46 am Post subject: Re: just changed the wires
yes, monitor the input amps by putting the amp meter inline with the + wire and + pole on battery. That will show you what amps are leaving the input battery. With the two wire setup, you don’t need a 3rd reverse wire. Please look at the SG schematic.

icemann, Posted: Mon May 23, 2005 12:02 pm Post subject: wont spin
Hi qiman13, I did measure the amps as you said. the funny thing is, since I changed to the big wires the motor does not spin any more. the meassured amp value was, as before with the smaller wires 1.2 A. why does it not spin any more!? Do you have any idea? icemann

qiman13, Posted: Wed May 25, 2005 9:04 am Post subject: Re: wont spin
I would use the smaller wires then. I don’t know why it wouldn’t work with bigger wires. give me the specs of your components and post a schematic

icemann, Posted: Fri May 27, 2005 9:20 am Post subject: its rotates again
Hi qiman13, thanks for your answer. I did find out why it did not rotate. I changed the numbers of magnets from 3 to 4 and it started again!

Also I did find out that the 2n3055 is to slow. becaue as I did change the numbers of magnetsfrom 4 to 8 it quitted its job again. After changing the transitor it rotated and the power consumption dropped from 1.3A to 600mA.

May I ask you for some details on your working device What are the values for: inductivity L of the coil number of windings of the coil diameter of the coil core diameter of the rotor number and material of the magnets you use

Do you think it is better to increase the diameter of the rotor or the inductivity of the coil to get the power consumption decreased further? The schematic I use is just the one from the simple school girl motor from Mr. Bedini. What schematic do you use? Can you post one which you would suggest me to use? Thanks icemann

Nav-Tesla, Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2005 1:07 am Post subject: Polarization of Radiant Energy!
Hi Quiman, I totally agree with you but the quest does not end with this alone!!! there is a whole lot of understanding in the essence involved in the Polarization of Hot and Cold Forms of Electricity or Radiant Energy/ Zero point Energy. Although Bedini’s device seemingly does exhibit the ‘extra’ Energy pumping action in the Charging Battries, neither he, nor Peter Lindmann or Tom Bearden have taken up the task of explaining as to how the Radiant Energy Flux Interact (Polarize) with ‘Hot’ Electricity.

I read the book ‘Free Energy Secrets of Cold-Electricity’ which tries to decode the EV Gray patent and also accounts for Tesla’s First encounter with the Mysterious Phenomenon that he calls as the Radiant Energy in his experiments involving ‘Disruptive’ Discharge of High-Voltage Capacitor through Magnetically Squenched Spark-Gaps to obtain Unidirectional Longitudal Pulses of the said form of Energy. what i wonder about is that how is it that no one every the world in large High-Voltage Laboratories have been able (if what is described by Tesla really exists) to re-create the effects of Electro-Radiant Events, i have come across some Scientist in the Netherlands is experimenting with the Possibilities of Fusion Reaction under room conditions at Staggering MAGNITUDES of Votages. but never ever heard about any thing like the Electro- Radiant event described by Tesla.

I have my self tried to experiment on Magnetic sequencing of Spark-gaps in the disruptive Discharge of Capacitors (although i have yet to try on the UHV level OF CAPACITOR DISCHARGE) but with no success in achieving anything like Tesla!!!!

i will also tell you about an experiment years ago that i carried out accidentally…. next time when i write to you. Best Regards, Navneet.

icemann, Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2005 1:01 pm Post subject: some open questions
Hello Quiman, may I ask if it is possible that you have not seen my last post from May 27 2005 in which I was asking you for some technical information on your working bedini device? I was woundering if the question were to detailled and you are perhapse not willing to provide these details. If that is the reason I appologize to be so currious. Thanks icemann

thaelin, Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2005 10:25 pm Post subject:
This is for iceman. I have been working with the bedini for a while now and found out that larger wire usually means higher current draw but has much more radiant output. I personally have settled in on #20 wire for all windings. I have not used the inductive trigger just for the fact that I want to decide how long the pulse duration will be. I use laser fired optical switching and am very happy with it. My coils read aprox 3.2 ohms and are 175 feet of wire. On how big you should have the wheel, well, that really isnot a factor. I had a mini running with 4 magnets on a skate wheel. The rpm’s was the problem. It slung a magnet at around 3000 rpm and left a nice hole in the wall. I have a six inch wheel with 6 magnets and five coils that I use to charge bats with. I have used up to 12 inch. The smaller, the faster.

Just remember your operating frequency for the radiant out will be how many pulses the coils do. Mine is around 1750 or so times 6. Hope this helps some.

Quiman: Many thanks for the site and the info. I have been looking for a good hydro boost for the van but most are not able to provide enough gas for the big V8 in it. This combining bedini with your generator seems to be a viable source of H/O mix at a gererous amount. I just found you today so much more reading is in store. Thaelin

ben, Posted: Thu Jul 07, 2005 4:34 pm Post subject:
Hi thaelin, Sounds pretty interesting what your doing. Do you think, or is it important, what the frequency is for the final out put, to make optimal amounts of gas. What are the factors for controling the output frequency with out reducing radiant energy. Thanks heaps ben

icemann, Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2005 11:15 am Post subject:
Thanks thaelin it is good to get some information. The problem with my device it that it does not get up to speed. Mine does defnetly not spin with 3000rpm. Is there a setteling time befor its speeds up Dont think so Or I am wrong?

Did you use a twisted wire – 3 wires twisted together and then used to wind the coil Or is that not neccesary? Thanks icemann